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What started as “the only thing I can eat is raw goat milk” has grown into a lifestyle, and I couldn’t imagine my life without these beautiful creatures. At the start, I needed a minimum of 1 quart (~2lbs) of raw goat milk every day, since my health had worsened to the point where I was on a mostly liquid diet. To make a long story short, I’ve had a lot of different health issues and to make it more challenging only about 10 people on the planet have anything close to what I have. Natural medicine (herbs, homeopathy, diet) is the only reason I’m still alive, and I know that it’s possible to achieve better results with a truly holistic approach than anything modern medicine has to offer.
With the goats, I can apply everything I’ve learned about holistic care while achieving much better results than anything I ever had with previous animals when we used conventional approaches. The other huge test for holistic care was when basically the conventional approach to treating “Cushings” in horses essentially nearly killed my mare. I’m a biologist by training and combining that with everything I learned trying to keep myself alive is also the reason why she is still alive. Yes, alive, healthy and sound 5 years after going off pergolide. It was hell, but seeing her so happy now makes it all worth it. So yes, holistic management is why I have a pony who’s pushing 40 and 2 minis who all live out on pasture 24/7 and are sound, at a good weight and laminitis free. The total opposite of how they were in a dry lot. Oh, and my pony and 1 of the minis have had acute laminitis in the past.
Nutrition is one of the foundations of health, and that is where things start with both the goats and chickens. In the past, I used various commercial feeds and always wound up with sick animals and nutrients deficiencies. The solution is both simple and complicated: feed real food. After all, if bioavailability didn’t matter we all (humans and animals alike) could just eat rocks to meet our mineral needs. This is why I did the research and custom formulated a food based all flock feed for our layers and 3 different feeds for the milkers, doelings and bucks. Another key point with senior animals (horses, goats, etc) is how important protein is, since it is just too easy for them to loose muscle. Hence why I formulate my own senior horse feed: I know exactly what is in it AND it has more, higher quality protein than any commercial feed.
The second foundation of health is minimal stress: ie the animal needs to live how they are supposed to. With free choice of movement, access to shade and forage and the company of others. It is SO important to understand how each species operates. Their social structure and each individual’s personality. Yes, each one of the horses, goats and chickens have their own personalities. It isn’t enough to know how each species operates. That knowledge has to be applied into practice, with timing and feel. I’m still working out how to teach that, but it is critical to making life as good as possible for both the humans and animals.
It’s common knowledge with horses that the horse mirrors the human. Is that horse spooky because he was started or because his rider is tense and stressed out? Animals sometimes know us better than we know ourselves, and the mirror they provide can shatter human egos. The problem is that coming at any behavioral issue with an animal from a place of ego is guaranteed to fail. When the human realizes this, it is truly amazing the depth of relationship that are possible. But you have to be willing to admit the animal might be smarter than you. A horse is an expert in being a horse. A goat is an expert in being a goat. A chicken is an expert in being a chicken. It’s up to the human to learn each language and successfully work with the animal.
There are 2 examples that come to mind with the goats & chickens. Pretty much every single day is an example with the horses 😀 One of my first two does is a very sweet, intelligent and sensitive goat. She’s a little on the fearful side, but once she realizes she’s safe she is a joy to be around. She was very nervous about being milked when I got her. From her point of view, she was in a brand new place, with brand new people and a brand new routine….unknown=fear. And being who she is it was more like FEAR. The first step was to help her build a positive relationship with being milked. Gently using her collar to lead her onto the milk stand, rewarding her with raisins and then milking. Since I couldn’t stop milking her to teach her, I had to keep milking while reshaping her view of being milked. Because she is faster to fear, I knew I had to avoid startling her. First talking to her “hi sweetie, it’s time to milk you”, then putting the back of my hand on her side, and slowly moving it towards her udder. Then washing her udder with the other hand, so she could feel me coming with the hand on her stomach. Then moving both hands to start milking, milking her out, then putting my hand on her stomach again while dipping her teats and finally saying “thank you” when I finished. Then the most important step…more raisins when she was done. I also worked with various TTOUCHes all over her body at first too, since she held so much tension in her body. She is still a slightly nervous milker, but she’s come a long way.
Something else that is really hard is learning new information about animal behavior and learning “well I have royally messed up and cause harm through ignorance”. Again, another humbling moment but important since times like this have helped me learn the most. I came across a video on YouTube on a channel called The Featherbrain all about what newly hatched hatchery chicks go through. You can find it there pretty easily. Needless to say, it was the type of wake up call that brought me to tears…fully understanding what life is like through the eyes of a newly hatched chick. I learned this before the last 2 groups of chicks I ordered, and I committed to apply what I had learned with them. Basically doing things a momma hen would do. You know the specific cry chicks make when you get them? Yeah, that means “I’m afraid, mommy where are you?” And yes, for the first 2 weeks when I heard that cry I went there to comfort them. None of us would let a newborn human cry in terror, why should we do that to a chick? There are other things to do to help a new chick feel secure if they don’t have a momma hen (see The Featherbrain’s YouTube channel), but this is a big one.
I will have goats and hatching eggs for sale. I prefer not to castrate for many reasons. While I strive to only produce the highest quality bucks, I might wind up with too many. I’m not adverse to freezer camp for them if I can’t find them a breeding home.
I’m also working on herbal blends to sell as well as feeds. I don’t breed or sell horses, but I have experience rehabbing horses with metabolic syndrome. If you need management help, nutrition help or want to learn how to trim hooves, I can help you with that. My preference for nutrition consults is to create whole food based solutions.
I am planning on going on milk test in the future, I just had a horrible health year this year and am still not well enough for that extra work. I am thinking of doing so not this year but next year, if I can figure out a few things. My challenge is how to do each milk test day without catching anything and getting sick. As far as milk production goes, my minimum requirement for a doe to stay in the herd is 2lbs a day. So if a doe is in my herd, that is the minimum she’s milking under my management conditions. Nutrition and management play a significant role in milk production, so I can’t guarantee milk production for any goat I sell. Animals aren’t machines.
One thing to please keep in mind is that I have some pretty severe health issues. I do my best to reply promptly, but there are times when I simply cannot do so. During flares I just do not feel well enough to give you the attention you deserve. If you try to contact me and I don’t reply within 1 week, odds are high that either there is some problem here I’m dealing with OR I am just too ill to reply. I will get back to you as soon as I possibly can.
Farm Management
Goats
Doelings, bucks and milking does each get grain once a day. I formulate each mix myself, using a combination of goat nutrients requirements and applied kinesiology to help me fine tune ingredients. The components are all organic or non-GMO. Some things I'm strict about getting as organic (corn & alfalfa). Other things I am willing to go with non-GMO, so long as I know how that farm operates. Organic certification can be too much of an expense for a small farm. There are small farms that either meet or exceed organic certification requirements but just can't afford the money or time to be certified organic.
All goats get Tifton 85 hay, since its the highest protein hay I can get locally that I'm not allergic to. Yes, I am one of those people who are allergic to pretty much all toxic modern chemicals....that means that I cannot use anything I am allergic to since things do come through in the milk and I need quite a bit each day. In addition, the does get a mix of Alfahay & teff pellets in the morning as some additional protein & calcium. They all have free choice kelp and minerals, though I am trying to figure out an alternative mineral strategy. Ideally, I would like to meet their mineral needs with foods, which is an ongoing project. They all have water 24/7 that has organic apple cider vinegar added to it.
The bucks have shelter & a small dry lot. We are planning on moving them to a larger tree pasture in the pine forest, when it's cool enough to do so. The does have shelter with fans on 24/7 (ok we converted our screen porch to doe 'barn'/kidding stalls) plus pasture. When it is cool enough, I harvest pine and other tree limbs for the does & bucks to forage. The does used to have access to the blueberries & grapes, but they were too rough on the plants. Now we give them what we prune off the plants, so they plants are happy too. We have some fodder trees, but they are still young and we haven't fed them to the goats yet.
We pasture breed. Each buck gets a selection of does for 2 months, and I monitor them for an estimate on when they're due. I basically become an obsessive helicopter parent as the does get to around day 130, so I can get an idea of what each doe's "normal" is and if there are any deviations. When I notice a doe is in labor, I hover at a respectful distance. Either watching from the house, if she's a more nervous type, or sitting with her if she wants me there. Then I'm right there to help, but I don't intervene unless I absolutely need to. Each doe gets offered a sip of a raspberry tea blend I make plus molasses. Then I have a variety of homeopathics I can use as needed for any issues during or after.
Aside from spraying cords with Vetricyn, I don't mess around with newborn kids unless I have no choice. Sometimes the most important thing is knowing when NOT to interfere. When they're 3 days old, I start dosing them with garlic tincture twice a day. Then they start on parasite herbs within that week.
With the chickens, the adult layers get fed once a day. Their feed is a blend of different grains, seeds, kelp and fish meal plus dried eggshells, nutritional yeast some fermented oats & barley and honey. Their chicken tractor gets moved daily.
The chicks get fed twice a day. They get the same base blend of grains, seeds, kelp & fish meal plus either organic spinach or broccoli and either cooked eggs from the layers or sardines or anchovies. The chicks also get some grass with the roots & dirt, for food & fun. There's nothing cuter than watching a little chick wriggling in grass.
The does' goat porch gets swept clean daily. The buck shelter normally is deep litter that we clean out twice a year. It has quite a bit of ventilation and that combined with the rain and heat here means that things compost rather quickly. We clean out the chicken tractor quarterly and clean the nest boxes as frequently as necessary. All water buckets get cleaned when refilling them, which tends to be every 2-3 days. The chick brooders are deep litter and will get thoroughly scrubbed out when its time for them to move to their new chicken tractor.
The horses rotate between their summer pasture and their winter pasture. Each pasture has shade. For feed, the younger minis get a few ounces of non-GMO alfalfa cubes, salt, kelp and a blend of organic/wild crafted herbs & fruits. My senior pony gets Alfahay, teff, oats, barley, salt, kelp, organic flax oil & organic/wild crafted herbs & fruits. The minis self maintain their hooves and I trim my pony every 6-8 weeks.
All manure from the goats & chickens gets composted in our compost pile. The horse manure gets left where it is, and the rain & sun compost it in place. Each horse pasture rests for about 6 months between uses.
Dam raising only results in wild kids if the humans don't interact with the kids. Each kid is handled twice a day every day from birth for parasite treatment. Then during their first month or two I spend time just hanging out with them. Letting their natural curiosity guide the interaction, letting them explore me and playing gently. I don't tolerate nipping or jumping at all. When they do that, I stop interacting with them completely and move away while watching what they do. When it seems they understood, I just go right back to playing with them like nothing happened. I don't really know how to describe exactly what goes on, but it works.
I also start getting them used to some basic handling during these play sessions, starting when they're about 2 weeks old. Letting me touch them all over their whole bodies. Bucklings letting me touch their legs & testicles and doelings letting me touch their udders. I trim hooves as soon as I notice they need it, holding the kid in my lap. They're already used to the idea that "human lap=safe". I also introduce them to the idea of being led with a "collar" by using my hands instead of a collar. Doelings also get to share some food off of mom when she's done on the milk stand, and I introduce them to the stanchion when they're big enough. Again as a fun game, closing the stanchion and scratching her favorite spot, giving her a treat and then letting her go. When she's big enough, she also gets her hooves trimmed like the adult does. All so she is not shocked by the milk stand and being milked during her first freshening, since that's a pretty big adjustment. Also, I prefer not to breed doelings until they're 2 so they can mature physically and mentally. A longer wait but better in the long run. Slow is fast.
My goal when working with the goats is to develop relationships with my co-workers (or I guess you could say goat-workers :D), so they WANT to work with me so its as enjoyable for all of us. To that end, which goats I hand milk or machine milk depends on the individual. My nervous milker from above? Yeah, I hand milk her since she just doesn't like the milk machine. I have another nervous doe, but she prefers the milk machine so that's what she gets. The third is just such a heavy milker, that hand milking her kind of breaks me so she gets machine milked.
I wound up inheriting some poorly installed chain link fence, which we've repaired. I do disbud kids, so they can't get a horn hung up on the fence. I make sure mom sees me take the kid, and I do my best to get everything done as fast as possible. Then the kid gets a dose of arnica, hypericum & ledum homeopathics for the pain, and mom might get some arnica if she's very stressed. Most of the time, the kid acts like nothing happened. When the caps break off, have blend of anti-microbial powdered herbs I put on top.
I use a combination of foods, herbs, homeopathy & flower essences for any injuries or other health issues that come up. Also, sometimes a goat just needs a hug, and I'm more than happy to do so.
Parasite Protocol:
First part of any parasite prevention is nutrition and minimizing stress. The goats get a blend of anti-parasite herbs & gut healing herbs that I make myself every day. I'm in Florida, so it's pretty much always wet here. Each month on the full moon, they also get some anti-parasite homeopathics in their water. The kids get 1/4 the adult amount twice a day at first, then 1/2 the adult amount. By the time they're 5 months old or so, they get the full adult amount. Kids get about 10 drops of garlic tincture (organic garlic and organic grain alcohol) twice a day through weaning. Bucklings are weaned at 10-12 weeks, though if one needs it I can separate mom & him longer. When dam raised, they know who mom is. ;) Doelings get weaned about a month after mom is bred again. They get moved to a separate small pasture with shelter, where they can see and talk to mom but can't nurse. Then I also make sure to have a bucket of water on the outside, in case mom just wants to hang out there. The kid(s) and mom get Rescue Remedy and also may get other homeopathics and/or Bach Flower Essences as needed. I also keep tinctures of garlic, onion and ginger on hand. I use a rather strong blend of the 3 to treat tapeworm plus a GI soothing blend. The main job of these is as daily anti-parasite support for the chickens. They all, adults & chicks, get apple cider vinegar, ginger tincture and onion tincture in their water. Then on full moon days, I will either put anti-parasite homeopathics in their water (if it's time to refill their waterer) or on top of their food.
Vaccination Protocols: No Vaccinations
- Disbudding